Top 3 of 2009
Throughout my life I have had some fairly definitive moments and it seems as every year goes by life become even more special than the last. This year in particular has been one of my most favorites.
Numero Tres.
Perhaps one of the most beautiful places I have ever been. The beaches, waves, and people are extremely beautiful. Although everyone on the trip wasn't there to surf, I was. I woke at sunrise put on my SPF 60 and hit the beach. For the 10 days of actual surfing I figure I averaged over 8 hours a day in the water. Learning to surf was extremely frustrating. The constant battering of the waves. Your mouth and throat raw from the salt water. Constant gagging making you wish for just a single drop of fresh water. Finally making past the break I would just sit there probably for hours trying to recoup and line up for a set. Always in the wrong spot at the wrong time, I would miss wave after wave. Finally catching one I would eat ocean sooner than a jelly fish. This struggle went one for about 8 days. Each day I got better but also more and more frustrated.
With only one or two days of surfing left I began to feel as though I would never catch a wave. Through what was surely a miracle I saw myself in what seemed like the perfect spot for an oncoming set. I quickly turned my board and began paddling. The large lump of water was soon right behind me and it felt like I was about to fall down a ten story building. I pushed myself up and stood on the board. It felt like I was going 100mph the wind rushing past and everything going by in a blur. All of a sudden everything went quite, all things in my mind became focused and it felt like perhaps I just died. I don't know how else to describe that feeling. I don't know how exactly a piece of foam and energy can deliver such a feeling but i'm sure when God created this world He knew very well what hidden secrets the waves would give to His people.




